The gardens at Puri Bagus Ponjok Batu

It is beautiful, unexpected, cheap, quiet as all get out, and the food is good. I ate too much: nasi goreng with seafood (about A$2.75), and a magnificent dish of "young fern" which is, as far as I can tell, exactly as described, with grated coconut and other spices familiar from other vegetable dishes. The Natural Guide to Bali told me to try it, and I am glad I did -- I reckon it will be one of the culinary highlights of the trip -- and it only set me back about A$0.75. The beers were A$1.50 each.